Hello All,
Apologies for the delay in posting this update. Problem with phone charger.
March 22nd:
The start: St Jean Pied de Fort, France.
Ready to go tomorrow. Beck in @ pilgrim center.Road closed on the 150 - 4,705 ft route of Napoleon over the Col Lepoeder.
Heavy snow, no visibility above 1000m.
AW gee. Disappointed.
Japanese group rescued 3/22. Frostbite, broken bones...
So after asking 6 more local people....I finally give up and decide on the 1,055m - 3,460 foot lower road.Stubborn Irish man .....
Turns out the lower road is the road Napoleon army used in 1739 to enter Spain.
March 23:
So off I go @ 9:30 a.m.Why so late?Decided to wait for the temperature @ higher elevations to improve.
Pouring hard, forecast snow @ 1000m...Battle with poncho adjustment.Wresting matches.Poncho won the first by four holds to 1.
I won the second match assisted by the Hotelier 4 to 3 in the final minute of the match.
And off we go......to Roncevalles- valley of thorns....25 km 15miles.
Combination road and trail to Valcarlos.
Approaching the town from the steep valley two dogs follow me into the village.
Before this....On the way :
A farmer came out of his house as I passed on the wrong road and yelled/pointed the other way until I realized I was on my way to ......Thanks Mr Farmer.
Not too good with signs....Have to improve.
Observation:
I really should not be let out without supervision....
The few pilgrims the started had left early.4 US, 8 Italians, Spaniards, S.Koreans, New Zealand honeymooners.
Back to Valcarlos:
The dogs follow me out of town.1 mile.I decide to walk them back into town.Meet a fireman coming the other way looking for the dogs. "Am I on the right road?"
"Monsieur: Yes.Stay on this road.Do not leave the black- top. We have the snow plough out already......and I do not want to come and find you..Thanks for the dogs....."
Ok - only now.... I have the message.....off I go.
Lovely snow starts.Big fluffy flakes.Is it not wonderful?
Observations:
Poncho is great.Legs are dry.Gaiters working well.Nice and warm.
Walkswithsticks perfect.Could not have done the trip for past 5 days without the trekking poles.Essential.
"Pepe" from Santiago.No English or French caught up an we walked to Roncevalles.
Tried to count how many times the snow plow came by.Wind picks up.White stuff is horizontal . Visibility 100m. Colder.
Big cross and small church at the summit.White !!@%:^&*'# will not stop.....
I said to Pepe....cerveza in Rocevalles?
We turned into the bar on arrival. Best beer I have had in years.....Had two.. and off the Municipal Albergue €10. Distance traveled circa 30 km - road is further.
Pilgrim mass to bless the feet/muscles and pray for a safe Camino.
Dorm accomodation.Nice.Hardly slept for excitment, rusting/movement all night.
March 24:
Roncevalles to Larosoana: 28 km - 17 miles. 955m/3,133' climb.
Rain.Ice/snow on the ground.Very rocky/ hard going.Albergue a disaster @ €6.Arroved @ 4. No electricity until 6pm.Showered bly flaslight.Squeaky top bunk.Cold wet wall.slept poorly. Nothing open for breakfast.
March 25:
Off we go @ 7 a.m. to Pamplona.Brekfast in a village @8a.m.Sense of humor "damaged"....better after coffee/toast.
Too slow for Pepe.See you in Santiago.Nice man.Very fit.Intending 30 km per day. Met two French ladies and off we went.
Rain almost all day.
Pamplona:
Hotel Yolandi.
VERY nice.Warm.Did laundry.
Toured city.Bull ring.Cathedral built form 1300 to 1500.Statue of Hemingway.He wrote "The sun also rises" in Pamplona.Walked the route for running of the bulls for the July feast of St Fermin, said to have been gored to death by bulls....
However no bull today.
Rain aaalall the time.
March 26:
Pamplona to Utega:
Over Alto Perdon.Heavy rain.Climb 790m.
2,590'. Tradition says this climb should be done barefooted to atone for sins.I did not take off the shoes.Rocks/mud all the way.High wind/ low visibility/vertical drop on one side.....And I was alllll alone....AW gee....
Nice private owned Albergue in Utega. Good dinner.Nice dorm room.
March 27:
Utega to Estella:
39km.Big day.No rain.Yeah!. Walked alone.Vinyards/olive trees.Great number of tiny birds in the bushes/orchards.
Too long a day.Got lost and added 60 minutes to the trip....
Friend of mine says
" Life is a tough teacher...First you get the experience... and then you get the lesson....." Thanks Jerry.Quite true.
March 28:
Estella: Hotel.rest day.
Apologies blog is disjointed. Will try and do better.
Many thanks for all your best wishes.
My best regards,
John
Walkswithstcks
