Mike Pepper and John Laughlin in front of the Cathedral in Santiago

April 24 2014.
She's brother Mike and I at the start of our celebration in Santiago.
Thanks to Mike for making the trip!!
What fun!

Santiago April 23 2014

Success!!! Made it safely to Santiago.
Very happy fellow!!

Big Wheel

Big Wheel keeeep on turnin.
Roman wheel/bench.
Jerry.......for the Chairman......Inspiration

Beer

You can stop walking and have a beer if you like.....

Automatic Shower/Vasmachine

Automatic Shower/Vasmachine

Note the size of the window.I have never seen a bathroom window like this......

Leon to Arzua April 13 to April 21

Hello All,
Well much has happened since my last update and all good.....

Palm Sunday in Leon was special.
Processions, bands all day.
Mass in the cathedral.A very nice man invited me to his house with his wife/son plus the parish priest and some members of the choir for lunch.

Beautiful weather, sat outside in the courtyard and drank some wine.We had paellela, salad and partridge.The parrish priest spent some years in Durban South Africa and so we had something in common.He spoke English and that was good because no one else did....(except me )

I was honored to be invited. (I probably looked like a sad Grey fellow allll  on his own.......)

After Leon I went to Hospital De Orbiga  then Astorga and started the climb to Rabanal.

The mountain rises to  1500m or 5,000 feet and Rabanal is at 1150 m or 3,770 feet.The weather was hot and clear.

The weather was great all the way until the last mile and then rain came......Weather changes quickly in the mountains......I sat in  a woodshed sm by a farmhouse for about an  hour comtemplating.......till the rain stopped.

Rabanal - April 16:
Got a room over a small supermarket. I was the only guest.Dinner on my own served by the lady of the house. She left me in the small lounge watching Real Madrid play Barcelona (football semi final) with some wine.

Locked the shop. "Help yourself to anything you want and tell me in the morning...."  and with that she went off home. My first time overnight in a supermarket.....

Had vespers in the Benedictine Monastery prior to dinner.The abbot knows the Abbott in Belmont N.C. Nice fellow to talk to, who made me feel welcome.Its been many years since I heard vespers - these were in latin.

So I met these two school teachers  from Ireland in Rabanal and.....

(Small attempt at a limeric....)

"There once were two  fellows from Ireland,
Who carried packs as big as the Island,
To me they did say , we notice today,
Your pack-is-tiny, we  say......"

No. I said.
I'm an American.......not a Pakistani.....

April 17th:
I climbed to the Cruz De Ferro (Iron cross) a big tradition of the Camino.......and then lost all my sense if humor on the extremely rough descent to Molinaseca.

Still no Americans on the trip.Quite a few Irish families, French, Spanish, Dutch, German; Swiss.

April 18 missed 60k(48m) because of time and took the bus to Sarria from Ponteferrada.

Weather closed in and rained April 19 through today the 21.

Had a cold night in a converted farmhouse outbuilding. Very little hot water.Countryside looks like the Chevin in Derbyshire England where Sue comes from.

Came face - to - nose with a cow and 30 of her best friends on the road through  a farmyard.They all stopped and looked me over 'till the farmer came out and said something like ..." Oh don't be silly girls....it's just one of those smelly bearded things with sticks.... "

I hope you all had a grand Easter and the bunny dropped off lots of eggs.

I hope Sue cornered the market on Marshmallow eggs and Mini eggs for me.

My invention:
Shower/Vasmachine:
Saves water.Saves time.Saves energy.
Start shower Regulate temperature.Enter shower with shirt,underwear and socks in place....I.e. on the body....

Soap shirt sleeves,collar, armpits, underwear and socks.Careful not to slip.
Remove all items of clothing and rub vigorously.  Rinse. Wash body.

Rinse clothes. Turn off shower....and presto,finished.Wring out clothes and hang to dry....

System well proven over 4 weeks....

Well three more nights until Santiago and the end of my trip on April 24th.

I plan to meet Sue's brother Mike in the square in front of the Cathedral at 10:30 a.m. on April 24th.

I can't tell you how much I am looking forward to seeing Mike.We'll have four days to look around and maybe go down to Finnisterre on the coast by car......no more walking until the Pine Lake Country Club Golf course......

I do miss you all.

Thanks again Sue for letting me go on my trip.

Thanks to Kate for arranging the Easter surprise.

My best regards,

John

Burgos to Leon

Hello All,
Thank you for your continued interest in my adventure.

April 6 to April 12:
On the way from Burgos to Leon:

April 6:
Burgos to Castrojeritz.
Mud and high wind.Slow.Tough day.High note was lunch and beer in the sun.
Nice place to stay in a small village.

I felt like the Spanish rooster.I walk with my feet in the mud......but I sing anyway....

Claude Rivel and Penelope from Avingnon in France.Nice couple to travel along with. I am faster and so find a cafe, have a beer or a wine.

Castrojeritz to Fromista: April 7:
Super steep climb.Windy and flat
Alfalfa and wheat.Farmers fertilizing.
On the meseta. High plateau.Good road.Lovely.
Ancient town 10th century.
Beautiful Roman churches.

Observation: Public areas. Hostel corridors, bar toilets etc....
Spain is very energy concious....
Every light switch is on a timer.
It is very important to know where the light switch is in the small toilet.......One can panic.......

April 8:
Fromista to Carrion De Los Condes.
Strond wind. +15 miles per hour alllll day.Flat path along a canal and then parallel to the road.Not many cars/trucks so not too bad.

April 9:
Carrion to Sahagun:
Managed to lose Claude and Penelope on the way to San Nicolas.Came out of thr café and POUF!

Some say they hid behind a church in the village of Moratinos.....

I will see them in Leon.We have the same Hotel reserved.

Sahagun was great.
Watched Barcelona play Atletico De Madrid in the 1/4 final of the Champions Cup. It did not go well for Barca.

April 10:
I expected to see the Duke ride out of the high plains  trees "Well hello pilgrim...."

Very flat.Great weather and hot sun this past 3 days.  Roman road all the way today and tomorrow.Best example of an untouched Roman road in all of Spain.
Quiet.Some sheep.Scubland. Stoney road. Beautiful.No houses. Zip, nada.Had lunch by a stream in some woods.On my own for two days....got "lost" in  Calzada De Coto. ........hardly possible.Two policemen showed me the way.....

Short day today. 15k.Tomorrow to Manilla De Las Mulas - Hand on the saddle and place if the Mules.Saw none.Rented none.

Still a shortage of 10th all on camels and so I have to walk.

Grand weather. Hot.No clouds.Roman road.No buildings for many miles.

Ohhhhh! What I would give for a Pine Lake Country Club Hamburger......With tomatoes, lettuce, onions and a $2 Miller High Life......

Re-arranged the course a few times to shorten 11....

Stayed in a dormitory in Manilla De Las Mulas.Dormitory.Ate family style with  group of French/Swiss and Swedes.Nice.I bought desert and beer.

Frechman sat on my bed at 5:45a.m "Bonjour John ....Can va? C'est temps d'etre debout.T'a bien dormi....????"

One of the hazards of the road....and bring your own everything....Cold water showers included.5€ a night. Deal.

SUE: Increase the budget!!

Leon April 12&13:
Rest days.Start of Holy week.Palm Sunday today.Processions. 60+ carrying each statue.Bands, dignitaries.Mass at 13:00.

Photos follow.

More to come later. Off towards Rabanal tomorrow.

Could one of the committee please have his phone switched on AND with him on Monday April 14 at the Tryon House......

Thank you Sue for all hour hard work managing the chickens.......

All my very best,

John,
walkswithoutsticksandbootsonrestdayinLeon....

Bon Dia!!

Hubert and The French ladies

Another test.
John

April 3 Photo

Hi All,
This is a test to see if I can attach a photo.......

John

Los Archos to Burgos

Hello All,
April 4 and 5 from Burgos.

Much action since my last update on March  29.

Estella to Los Arcos:
Weather and the road improved.First vineyards.Cold getting better.

Terrifying sight:
Nothing like a 66 year old man in his underwear descending from the upper level of the bunk bed at 3a.m.....Some will have nightmares....and then the remount is not gracious...

Trick is not to stand on the person below.Good idea to jump- but after walking 16 miles that day.....

Executive decision:
Sue - increase the budget.I can't sleep in a dormitory. Did that for 6 years at St Aidans Jesuit College.

Los Arcos:
Things got much bettet.Met a couple from Larna.South Tyrol mountains in Italy/border with Austria.

A tent maker and wife. Hubert an Angela. Travelled with them to Burgos but alas they leave tomorrow.My German/Italian have improved as they speak no English.

French ladies went home yesterday.All married to Doctors . One a pharmacist whose husband is a Pediatric Cardiologist.

Off on the sections to  Leon tomorrow.Walked 190miles behind me so far.Great wine in La Rioja region. Beautiful vineyards gave way to wheat fields. Road much better with the exception of some major climbs.Rocky.Windy. Cold.Only one day in shorts.

P.S.
I added 10 in Estella.....Got lost.Frustrated.Dropped my cap and an 8 year old ran 600m+ to give it back.Nice girl that she was.The boy was in dissaray....

Elderly lady on her balcony (minus her dentures...) in her bathrobe waved  me the right way.....

Only 4 Americans since March 23. Most Spanish/ French/Italian.

Cathedral in Burgos exceeds it's reputation.Beautiful.Listened to a concert.Went to mass.Special time.

Feet/legs etc..working .Sticks are amazingly good. Could not have got this far without the sticks.Gaiters and Poncho essential. Still cannot put on the poncho without the help of 3 people....Great fun in the wind...  lots of mud.Sone rain showers.Cool.

Observation:
I did not marry Sue to be parted from her.That makes this trip harder.

Thanks to all for your comments and encouragement.Will try and reply and post some photos.

It has been a great trip so far.

Miss you all.
Will try to update in the next few days.

Best,

John

Estella to Los Arcos

Hello All,

March 27 and 28:
Estella
Fighting a cold so I stayed 2 nights in Estella.Went to mass at Basilica Del Puy on top of the mountain overlooking the town.

Stopped to see a Pelota court.Popular Basque game of "handball-for-four, on steroids played in a Hi-li court l" two sides front wall, side wall, open third wall.Ball is hard leather smaller than a racket ball/bigger than a squash ball.

Some places date to 10 century, some 13th.

Passed the wine fountain.Empty.I really must get up earlier.....

March 29:
Estella to Los Arcos, not feeling too great. Beautiful rolling hills.Three steep climbs.Headwind of 25+ problem.Much better quality road.

Walked with a group of 8 French ladies for a while.Still 90% of the time on my own....I think of all the things I have to be thankful for....and maybe some of the "bonehead" moves I have made....

March 30:
Off to Logrono today.Much bigger city.

Observation:
Challenge is figuring out what to do at each step.....not easy without a committee to assist.....

4 US since March 23.Allmost all Europeans.Some Korean/Japanese.Most in 20-35 year age.

My Spanish is improving.....

Miss you all

All the best,

John

March 23 to March 28 2014

Hello All,
Apologies for the delay in posting this update. Problem with phone charger.

March 22nd:
The start: St Jean Pied de Fort, France.
Ready to go tomorrow. Beck in @ pilgrim center.Road closed on the 150  - 4,705 ft route of Napoleon over the Col Lepoeder.
Heavy snow, no visibility above 1000m.
AW gee. Disappointed.

Japanese group rescued 3/22. Frostbite, broken bones...

So after asking 6 more  local people....I finally give up and decide on the 1,055m - 3,460 foot lower road.Stubborn Irish man .....

Turns out the lower road is the road Napoleon army  used in 1739 to enter Spain.

March 23:
So off I go @ 9:30 a.m.Why so late?Decided to wait for the temperature @ higher elevations to improve.
Pouring hard, forecast snow @ 1000m...Battle with poncho adjustment.Wresting matches.Poncho won the first by four holds to 1.

I won the second match assisted by the Hotelier 4 to 3 in the final minute of the match.

And off we go......to Roncevalles- valley of thorns....25 km 15miles.

Combination road and trail to Valcarlos.
Approaching the town from the steep valley two dogs follow me into the village.

Before this....On the way :
A farmer came out of his house as I passed on the wrong road and yelled/pointed the other way until I realized I was on my way to ......Thanks Mr Farmer.

Not too good with signs....Have to improve.

Observation:
I really should not be let out without supervision....

The few pilgrims the started had left early.4 US, 8 Italians, Spaniards, S.Koreans, New Zealand honeymooners.

Back to Valcarlos:
The dogs follow me out of town.1 mile.I decide to walk them back into town.Meet a fireman coming the other way looking for the dogs. "Am I on the right road?"
"Monsieur: Yes.Stay on this road.Do not leave the black- top. We have the snow plough out already......and I do not want to come and find you..Thanks for the dogs....."

Ok - only now.... I have the message.....off I go.

Lovely snow starts.Big fluffy flakes.Is it not wonderful?

Observations:
Poncho is great.Legs are dry.Gaiters working well.Nice and warm.
Walkswithsticks perfect.Could not have done the trip for past 5 days without the trekking poles.Essential.

"Pepe" from Santiago.No English or French caught up an we walked to Roncevalles.

Tried to count how many times the snow plow came by.Wind picks up.White stuff is horizontal . Visibility 100m. Colder.

Big cross and small church at the summit.White !!@%:^&*'# will not stop.....

I said to Pepe....cerveza in Rocevalles?
We turned into the bar on arrival. Best beer I have had in years.....Had two.. and off the Municipal Albergue €10. Distance traveled circa 30 km - road is further.

Pilgrim mass to bless the feet/muscles and pray for a safe Camino.

Dorm accomodation.Nice.Hardly slept for excitment, rusting/movement all night.

March 24:
Roncevalles to Larosoana: 28 km - 17 miles. 955m/3,133' climb.
Rain.Ice/snow on the ground.Very rocky/ hard going.Albergue a disaster @ €6.Arroved @ 4. No electricity until 6pm.Showered bly flaslight.Squeaky top bunk.Cold wet wall.slept poorly. Nothing open for breakfast.

March 25:
Off we go @ 7 a.m. to Pamplona.Brekfast in a village @8a.m.Sense of humor "damaged"....better after coffee/toast.

Too slow for Pepe.See you in Santiago.Nice man.Very fit.Intending 30 km per day. Met two French ladies and off we went.

Rain almost all day.

Pamplona:
Hotel Yolandi.
VERY nice.Warm.Did laundry.
Toured city.Bull ring.Cathedral built form 1300 to 1500.Statue of Hemingway.He wrote "The sun also rises"  in Pamplona.Walked the route for running of the bulls for the July feast of St Fermin, said to have been gored to death by bulls....
However no bull today.

Rain aaalall the time.

March 26:
Pamplona to Utega:
Over Alto Perdon.Heavy rain.Climb 790m.
2,590'. Tradition says this climb should be done barefooted to atone for sins.I did not take off the shoes.Rocks/mud all the way.High wind/ low visibility/vertical drop on one side.....And I was alllll alone....AW gee....

Nice private owned Albergue in Utega. Good dinner.Nice dorm room.

March 27:
Utega to Estella:
39km.Big day.No rain.Yeah!. Walked alone.Vinyards/olive trees.Great number of tiny birds in the bushes/orchards.

Too long a day.Got lost and added 60 minutes to the trip....

Friend of mine says
" Life is a tough teacher...First you get  the experience... and then you get the lesson....." Thanks Jerry.Quite true.

March 28:
Estella: Hotel.rest day.

Apologies blog is disjointed. Will try and do better.

Many thanks for all your best wishes.

My best regards,

John
Walkswithstcks

St Jean Pied de Port

Hello,
Thank you for following my progress.
Great time in Paris these last two days.Special place for me.Lovely evening with Andte, Natalie  and Max

St Jean Pied de Port tonight.Charmig, small walled town at the base of the Pyrenees.Nice Hotel.

Ready to set off tomorrow for the first stage of my Camino to Roncevalle.Weather forecast is 40-50'sF rain.Fog/rain followed by snow above 1,000m.So decision is to take the road instead of the mountain trail. Visibility on the high pass is risky/snow/etc....

Waiting for dinner time.Restaurants open around 7:30.....now around 6pm.

Observation....."different".....
All these years traveling for the boss......I have no rigid schedule, computer bag, sample boxes, no power point presentation to rehearse, no awkward customers to see....no  colleagues to meet me at the airport and drive me ar
no factories, no  rental cars..no status

AND no  expense account. Traveling is hard...traveling without status is awful!

Hope you are all well.

My best regards,

John

Off tomorrow on my trip. Packing tonight

Hi to all,
Packing up tonight. Everything I own is grey. Sidewalks and asphalt are grey. I'll blend - in nicley....
Excitement is mounting. Feels like the start of a marathon.
Looking forward to two nights in Paris.
Thanks to all for your support.

Camino Frances

Preparing to go

Hi getting ready.